Knit to Last—Ranking the Sustainability of Llama, Merino, Mohair, and Angora Fibers

Written By Sophia Kohler

As knitwear continues to dominate both conscious wardrobes and luxury fashion runways, the fibers we choose are under growing scrutiny. Beyond softness and warmth, what matters is the story each yarn carries: its impact on land, water, animals, and communities.

At Smart Fashion, we believe fashion should be rooted in knowledge and transparency. So we’ve gone deep into the lifecycle, ethics, and environmental impact of four natural fibers commonly used in knitwear: llama fiber, merino wool, mohair, and angora. The findings? A clear sustainability hierarchy and a cautionary tale for designers and consumers alike.

1. Llama Fiber — A Hidden Gem of Sustainability

Llama fiber, long overshadowed by its cousin alpaca, is one of the most sustainable natural fibers available today.

Why It Ranks Highest:

  • Minimal environmental footprint: Llamas require significantly less land, water, and food than traditional livestock such as sheep and goats. Their soft-padded feet also minimize soil erosion during grazing, unlike hooved animals [1][2].

  • Gentle grazing practices allow ecosystems to regenerate naturally, preventing land degradation and biodiversity loss [1].

  • No intensive farming required: Llamas thrive in harsh, arid conditions like the Andes, reducing the need for artificial inputs like irrigation, fertilizers, or shelter [3].

  • Biodegradable and suitable for circular fashion systems [2].

  • Supports indigenous economies: Llama fiber is still largely sourced through small-scale, community-based production, sustaining traditional knowledge systems [2].

Minor Trade-Off:

Llama fleece contains guard hairs that must be removed by hand — a more labor-intensive process than other wools [2]. But this slower, more manual approach often aligns with artisanal, small-batch production, which is in itself a form of resistance to fast fashion.

Verdict: Ethical, ecological, and artisan-friendly, llama fiber is a future-forward knitwear hero.

2. Merino Wool — Naturally Renewable, But Not Without Impact

Merino wool is a renewable and biodegradable fiber, praised for its luxurious softness and high-performance properties. But it’s not entirely without controversy.

The Good:

  • Sheep are shorn annually — no animal death is required [4][5].

  • Durability and odor resistance means less frequent washing, saving energy and water [4].

  • Highly recyclable: Can be mechanically recycled up to six times, retaining up to 92% of tensile strength [6].

  • Biodegradable: Merino breaks down naturally, leaving no microplastic residue [4].

The Challenges:

  • High methane emissions: Sheep produce large amounts of methane, a greenhouse gas 84 times more potent than CO₂ over 20 years [7].

  • Land-intensive: Merino production uses 250x more land than some cotton alternatives [7].

  • Overgrazing risk: In some regions, intensive sheep farming contributes to land degradation and biodiversity loss [7].

Verdict: A strong contender when sourced from certified regenerative or responsible farms, but not a free pass. Land use and emissions still need addressing.

3. Mohair — Luxurious Look, Problematic Impact

Mohair, made from the fleece of Angora goats, is often marketed as a high-end material. But behind the glamour lies a complicated environmental and ethical story.

A Few Positives:

  • Durable and biodegradable — a long lifespan offsets some of the impact [8].

  • Requires fewer washes than synthetic blends [8].

Sustainability Shortcomings:

  • Overgrazing: Angora goats are known to strip vegetation, contributing to desertification and soil erosion [8].

  • High methane production: Like sheep, goats are ruminants and produce large quantities of methane [8].

  • Water and energy use: Scouring and dyeing processes are resource-intensive, often leading to water pollution[8].

  • Animal welfare concerns: Major investigations have revealed widespread abuse in farms, especially in South Africa — the world’s largest mohair exporter [9][14].

Verdict: While biodegradable, mohair’s environmental and ethical baggage outweighs its benefits unless sourced under certified animal welfare standards.

4. Angora — Soft on the Skin, Hard on the Planet

Angora wool, made from Angora rabbits, is biodegradable — but that’s where the good news ends.

Ethical and Environmental Red Flags:

  • Extreme animal cruelty: Harvesting is often done through forceful plucking, causing rabbits immense pain and distress [11][12].

  • Environmental footprint: Rabbit farming contributes to land use and water consumption for feed, despite small individual animal size [11].

  • Durability issues: Angora tends to pill and lose shape, shortening garment lifespan and contributing to fashion waste [11].

  • Chemical processing: Often involves harsh chemical treatments to enhance texture and prevent shedding [11].

Verdict: With both ethical and environmental concerns, angora fails to meet modern sustainability standards. Brands prioritizing transparency should phase out angora entirely.

Final Thought: Sustainability Isn’t Just About Fiber — It is About Systems

Material choice is only one part of a garment's impact. But it’s a critical starting point. For brands which use all four of these fibers in their collections, this analysis makes a clear case: lean into llama and certified merino, and begin phasing out mohair and angora unless they come from strictly verified ethical sources.

In the end, sustainable fashion is not just about reducing harm, it is about actively creating good: supporting ecosystems, protecting animals, and preserving craftsmanship.

Sophia Kohler
Previous

Microfibers Are Everywhere! Is Fabric Structure the Missing Piece?
Next

Spiber and Iris van Herpen Weave the Future of Fashion